5 Expert Snake Plant Growing Tips

Snake plants, or Dracaena species, are easy to care for, partially because of their native habitat! They originate from regions of Africa where well-drained soil is common, so their roots dislike sitting in standing water. The succulent species thrive with little moisture, filtered light, and dry soil.

Most growing issues result from moisture imbalances, though other factors like lighting levels and root health can also influence plants’ well-being. With a watchful eye and patience, you can cultivate healthy specimens regardless of where you live.

Though underwatering can harm Dracaena species, overwatering is more often the danger. By the time you notice symptoms in the leaves, the roots are likely rotting and in need of some care. The first step in identifying overwatering symptoms is to feel the soil; stick your finger in the pot to see if it’s wet beneath the surface.

If it’s dry, you know the issue may be underwatering and it’s time to add moisture to the soil. If it’s wet, overwatering is the issue. You have a few options for recovery: up-potting, propagation, or leaving the plant alone. 

I like to leave my plants alone, take cuttings of their leaves, and see how they do. That way, if the mother species dies, I have rooted cuttings to replace it with. Up-potting may be the best option in situations with large specimens. You don’t want to have to start over from small cuttings! 

These serpent-like species readily propagate themselves! You can use this to your advantage. Rather than buying new plants, you can take cuttings of existing ones and multiply your stock. This is especially useful if your plant is dying or diseased and you don’t want to buy a new one.

You can propagate cuttings in pots with soil or jars with water. Take two to three-inch cuttings for soil propagation, and four to five-inch pieces for water propagation. Make V-notches at the bottom of the cuttings so there’s more surface area for them to sprout roots. Before planting them, let their wounds heal for a day or two to prevent rot. 

After the cut marks are dry and sealed, stick the cuttings in water or soil and place them under bright, indirect sunlight. They’ll form roots within a few weeks if they receive continuous care. Replace the water in the jars once a day, and keep the soil in the containers moist but not soggy throughout the growing process.

Old houseplants live for many years in their containers, and they benefit from an occasional up-potting or dividing process when their roots grow bound under the dirt’s surface. This is also a good idea if you suspect the roots are beginning to rot. You can remove the plants from their containers, snip the dead roots off, and place the plants in fresh soil to recover. 

To divide, first remove the plant from its container and inspect the roots. Snake plants sprout shoots from underground roots; they form rosettes or clusters that pop out of the ground. You can separate these clusters with a pruner or a knife to plant them in new containers. Ensure each division has a robust root system to increase their chances of success. 

Only divide healthy specimens that can handle the trauma, and do so during spring or summer when there’s plenty of light to recover under. Up-potting or repotting can help rotting species before they die completely, and they’re great techniques for repairing sick specimens. 

Whether to repot or up-pot depends on the plant in question. If you remove it from its container and it has plenty of disease-free roots, you’ll want to place the rootball in a larger pot with fresh soil. If the specimen has many dead roots, trim them and dust soggy dirt off the living ones. Then, place the plant back in the same container with fresh, non-soggy soil. 

Light is important for houseplant health! Too much or too little can create issues for budding species. When root rot arrives, placing your plant in bright light and waiting for it to recover is often enough for survival, though this is not always the case. 

If rot is just beginning to appear, and the dirt is already drying, you can move your specimen closer to the light to promote rapid growth. More growth leads to more water consumption, which helps the soil dry quickly so the roots can recover. 

All varieties and species of this perennial prefer bright, filtered light indoors. Outdoors, they’ll tolerate partial shade with morning sun between two and six hours a day. 

If your home is too dark for these perennials, consider adding grow lights! These easy-to-use tools mimic sun rays and create ideal conditions for houseplants to thrive. Simply set them on a timer, place them a few inches above your plants, and monitor the species to ensure they continue thriving. 

Though these perennials thrive as houseplants, they appreciate a summer vacation outdoors! Moving them outside for the summer promotes fresh, ample growth that will help the specimens survive the winter inside. 

Transition them slowly to avoid shock. They appreciate a hardening-off period, much like veggie seedlings, where you move them outside under dappled sunlight for a few hours each day. After a week or two of hardening off, you can begin transitioning them to more light and leaving them outside overnight.