How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Hoya ‘Krimson Princess’

Hoya carnosa ‘Krimson Princess’ is one of the most popular among the genus for its vining stems and thick, waxy leaves that trail with a soft, sculptural appeal. The semi-succulents are adaptable and one of the easiest houseplants to grow in various conditions. With few requirements, they’re ideal for beginners but also a staple in the collector’s houseplant complement.

‘Krimson Princess’ vines are prettily variegated with ivory leaves with dark green edges. A pink blush highlights the creamy foliage for the sweetest tri-color blend. For a long-lived, easy-care houseplant to delight hanging baskets or spill along the mantle, take a look at Hoya ‘Krimson Princess’ and how to best foster her attractive form, foliage, and flowers.

Hoya are longtime favorites for their ornamental appeal and adaptability to indoor growing environments. Some 500 species and their cultivars in diverse colors and shapes make them versatile across spaces. Hoya carnosa has the common monikers wax plant, porcelain flower, and honey plant.

Adding to the striking leaves of ‘Krimson Princess’ are sweetly scented, pinkish-white blooms that may appear on mature specimens in the summer. The pristine, starry blossoms have magenta-red centers and appear in clusters. Even without the blooms, the exciting foliage makes this one worth growing.

‘Krimson Princess’ is similar to its relative ‘Krimson Queen.’ The ‘Queen’ has the same form and flowering, with an inverse of the leaf patterning. Leaves are primarily dark green with creamy white edges and pink blush tones. They’re also slightly thinner. Growing conditions overlap for both prized selections.

Both ‘Krimson Princess’ and ‘Krimson Queen’ are stable mutations of the species. The straight species is a Royal Horticultural Society Award of Garden Merit recipient for its vigorous growth, ornamental foliage, and gorgeous flowers.

The long-lived ‘Krimson Princess’ hoya bears waxy foliage with dark green borders and creamy white centers, sometimes splashed with blush pink (especially in bright light). The thick leaves are semi-succulent and hold water to support the plant and its epiphytic roots through short dry spells. Vining stems are dark pinkish-red.

‘Krimson Princess’ and its multi-tonal leaves hold less chlorophyll in their lightest portions. Less chlorophyll means slower photosynthesis and growth than in typical green-leaved varieties. Because the leaf margins contain most of the chlorophyll, they’ll need access to plenty of light to complete energetic processes. They also likely won’t flower in low light; flowering is more reliable as light increases.

The starry, pale pink blooms emerge in the warm months, though they usually don’t bloom until mature and may not bloom indoors. If you’re lucky to have a happy, established hoya, you’ll enjoy the clusters of thick, waxy petals, perfectly arranged and porcelain-like.

Hoya carnosa originates mostly in tropical Asia and Australia. They grow naturally in subtropical understories, where they trail as groundcovers and climb up trunks. 

Hoyas thrive in high humidity and mild temperatures. In their home jungles, year-round temperatures average in the 80s, with lows in the 60s and highs infrequently in the 90s (between 16-32°C).

Hoya ‘Krimson Princess’ survives the winter in climates that don’t drop much below 50°F (10°C). Everywhere else, they perform well in pots in the temperate environments of our homes. They’ll enjoy spending mild months outside or growing indoors year-round.

To grow the trailing tropicals in a container, opt for a hanging basket to enjoy the suspended vines. In a pot, train them along a small trellis. Install the support at planting to avoid disrupting the roots later on. Without a support structure, the vining stems sprawl, cascade, and trail over a container edge (you can always prune them to keep a tidy, leafy form).

Hoyas infrequently need repotting. They like their roots a bit crowded and perform well when slightly potbound, living in the same vessel for years. It may even promote blooming when roots reach their optimum growing space and direct energy toward reproducing (flowering).

Young plants warrant repotting every couple of years, while mature specimens only need it every three to four years. Even if the pot is the best size for the established grower, the potting media will need a refresh for aeration and nutrients.

Upsize to a larger container if roots protrude through drainage holes or pop up above the soil surface. Choose a pot that is only one or two sizes larger than the existing container. Avoid going too big, as extra soil volume retains moisture and causes prolonged saturation. Root rot is a common problem for ‘Krimson Princess’ in soggy soils.

In the right conditions, ‘Krimson Princess’ hoyas adapt well to temperate growing and are easy-care houseplants. Give them ample light, moderate moisture, and humidity, and they thrive with little maintenance.

Because of its colorful leaves and lack of chlorophyll, Hoya ‘Krimson Princess’ needs plenty of bright, indirect light. High light helps retain coloration and produce those pretty pink overtones. A little morning sun is ideal. Indoors, a situation near an east-facing window provides morning sun and indirect light in the afternoon. Too much direct sunshine, especially afternoon rays, can scorch the leaves and stems.

Since hoyas are naturally understory growers, grow them outdoors in partial shade (like under a tree canopy) with dappled light and afternoon shade protection.

Hoyas have low water needs and prefer soils that dry slightly between sessions but rely on moisture in moderation. In the jungle, the hemi-epiphytes absorb rain and moisture from the air and soil. 

Water slowly and thoroughly when the soil feels dry two inches below the soil surface. Frequency is usually once a week or two, depending on the growing environment, season, and plant/container size. Err on the dry side rather than overwatering.

Overwatering is easy to do for these semi-succulents. Excessive moisture causes root rot and leads to their inability to uptake water and nutrients.

Hoya carnosa ‘Krimson Princess’ does best in loose, well-draining soils with good aeration. For containers, use a high-quality potting mix and amend it with bark or perlite. Orchid bark mix works well as a medium, too. Renew the soil at each repotting session.

Ideal daytime growing temperatures for the tropical vines are between 75-85°F (24-29°C), with nighttime temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C).

Humidity is a key cultural condition in their natural environment, and hoyas do best with humidity above 50%. This level is average for most homes but can vary depending on season and other conditions like an arid climate, heat, and air conditioning. Hoyas love a humidity level that’s closer to 70%.

To raise the humidity, place the pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. The water increases the immediate air moisture around the plant. Clustering houseplants also raises the surrounding humidity. The most sure-fire way to control levels is with a humidifier.

‘Krimson Princess’ needs little fertilizing, though houseplants get a boost from balanced, low-grade, diluted formulas. Begin fertilizing in early spring with a monthly application during the growing season. Opt for an organic liquid houseplant fertilizer (like 5-5-5) and use it at ½ strength.

Stop fertilizing in early fall as growth naturally slows and temperatures cool.

This low-maintenance houseplant has few needs in the proper cultural conditions. Clip off damaged growth or yellowing leaves anytime. Trim stems if they get leggy to promote leafy stems and manage size. When pruning, cut stems just above a leaf node to generate new growth.

‘Krimson Princess’ hoya propagates most easily through stem cuttings. Simple layering is another method to expand the collection (or to share!).

The best time to take cuttings is in spring and summer during the active growing season, though you can try them at any time of year. Cut a healthy piece of stem below a node, with one to three leaves intact. Place the stem in a clean, clear jar of shallow water to cover the node. In a week or two, roots develop. When they’re over one inch long, plant the cutting in a small pot with moist, well-draining potting mix.

You can also bypass the water rooting and stick the fresh cutting in a small pot filled with moist potting mix. Keep the soil consistently moist, and place the pot in a bright, warm spot out of direct sunlight.

Another way to propagate the vines is by layering. In the landscape, stems naturally layer by rooting as nodes rest on the soil surface. The crawling, rooting stems expand the colony while utilizing resources from the mother plant until they develop self-supporting roots.

Simple layering is a technique that works for trailing specimens. Fill a small pot with soil or use a layering pod and place it below a node of a trailing stem (still attached to the mother plant). Bury the stem a few inches deep in the pot. Then, pin it in place and keep the soil moist. 

If you’re using a pod, simply stuff it with moistened peat or coco coir and affix it around the stem. When roots develop and the stem resists a gentle tug (after about two to three months), clip the layer from the primary plant.

The tropical houseplants have few pest and disease problems, but sap-sucking insects like spider mites, scale, aphids, and mealybugs are occasional visitors. Root rot due to overwatering is a preventable fungal issue.

Scale usually appear on the undersides of leaves and stems as black, gray, or silvery dots. Foliage may yellow and drop, with stems dying back in heavy infestations. For small numbers, dab leaves and stems with a cotton swab soaked in isopropyl alcohol.

Mealybugs are soft-bodied and appear cottony on leaves and stems. In an infestation, you’ll notice the insects themselves and yellowing, wilting, or stunted leaves.

Spider mites are common in houseplants and live on the undersides of leaves, indicated by webbing and light yellowing of leaf surfaces.

Aphids are pear-shaped pests that congregate in large numbers to feed on tissues. They’re vectors for diseases and viruses and leave a sticky honeydew. The residue becomes an unattractive, black, sooty mold in humid conditions. Leaves my curl and yellow in outbreaks.

Scale, mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites gravitate toward specimens stressed by under or overwatering. For small populations, run plants under a stream of water to displace them. Horticultural oils like neem are effective as more potent treatments. Pop mealybugs and scale off the plant with a cotton swab soaked in 70% or less rubbing alcohol.

Root rot is a common fungal disease that causes the roots to turn brown and mushy; as they decay, they can’t function to support growth.

Plants in overly soggy media with poor airflow may show yellowing and wilting leaves. If you suspect rot, slip the ‘Krimson Princess’ out of the pot to check the roots. Clip off any that are brown or damaged. 

It’s in these conditions that fungal diseases like powdery mildew and botrytis can crop up as well. Powdery substances on the leaves and flowers are indications of these diseases. Clip off areas of the plant that show these signs to keep these diseases under control.

Replant using fresh media and water thoroughly, starting a regimen that prevents prolonged oversaturation. If caught early, you may see rebounding growth. Since these tropicals propagate easily from stem cuttings, take a few healthy ones in case the roots don’t recover.