How to Repot Your Philodendron in 7 Simple Steps

Philodendrons boast nearly a century of houseplant popularity. They bring distinctive foliage, lobed or heart-shaped, and are handsome as they climb, vine, or stand alone as stately focal points. In frost-free subtropical climates (USDA zones 10-11), they offer year-round garden interest. 

There are over 600 philodendron species in the Arum (Araceae) family, including household favorites like split leaf, a tree species, and heartleaf, a spreader. They are native to South and Central America’s tropical rainforests and adapt well to more temperate climes, given average warmth and humidity indoors. 

Philodendrons are easy-care houseplants in the right conditions. Given ample light and the proper moisture, they thrive with little maintenance, some lasting for decades. To ensure a healthy, happy philodendron, repotting is part of regular care as it matures. They prefer tight quarters and do well when slightly pot-bound. Following a few best practices keeps the roots and leafy growth flourishing.

The Philodendron genus holds many cultivars available to enliven the interior as durable growers, including favorites like split leaf, heartleaf, and fiddleleaf. When it comes to repotting, it helps to understand if you have a tree or vining type. And, regardless of type, the best time to repot philodendrons is in spring or summer, when they experience active growth.

A classic tree species is the split leaf philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum) with deeply lobed leaves and a distinct shape. Like monstera, they feature oversized foliage and make a statement as large specimens. Unlike vining species, tree philodendrons are self-supporting with a thick central trunk. 

A favorite vining or spreading selection is heartleaf, or sweetheart, philodendron (P. hederaceum) with vining stems and glossy, heart-shaped leaves. Stems cascade or climb, depending on supports. Numerous variegated varieties brighten the interior display, and the solid green species is a soft, cascading anchor.

Fiddleleaf philodendron (P. bipennifolium) brings lush, shapely foliage and vertical interest to the houseplant jungle. Shiny, dark olive green leaves are broad and long, with the distinguishing characteristics of deep lobes in a fiddle shape. As a vining type, it grows from the ground up around tree trunks in its native environment with aerial and in-ground roots.

Reliable and slow-growing, this vining philodendron is hemi-epiphytic with aerial roots that support long stems as they climb and root to a support structure like a moss pole or wooden plank. Other roots grow in the soil to anchor and absorb moisture and nutrients for upper growth.

Of note is that philodendrons are toxic if ingested. Keep them out of reach of children and curious pets when repotting.

Since the tropicals like to be slightly rootbound, it helps to know what to look for in determining the need to repot. It’s time to repot philodendrons when:

When being potbound is an issue, upper growth becomes crowded and may show reduced vigor, discolored foliage, and languid stems. Overly cramped roots beneath eventually present in the leafy growth as roots aren’t able to hold enough moisture or nutrients to support the upper portions. New growth may be reduced or halted. 

Quick runoff at watering or overly dry soil is another sign of crowding. Water that runs quickly through drainage holes indicates less potting media is present. Roots take up all the space and moisture in the pot without the ability to retain it in the surrounding mix.

The opposite of quick runoff is a potting medium that holds too much moisture. If the surrounding media stays damp for a prolonged period, the existing pot may be too large for the current root capacity. Overly wet surrounding soils happen when placing a small specimen in an oversized container. A pot that’s too large can be detrimental to healthy roots and upper growth because of soggy conditions.

The potting mix also degrades over time, benefitting from a refresh every two to three years. Potting soil loses nutrients and aeration with continual watering and nutrient uptake by the plant, and begins to collapse at a detriment to the roots.

With aged potting media, compaction and a lack of aeration lead to stress. A lack of oxygen to the roots and oversaturation cause root damage. If the philodendron is in the same pot for a few years, give it a fresh mix, even if returning it to the same container after cleaning up roots and replacing new media.

When repotting philodendrons, use a high-quality potting mix for houseplants to ensure good drainage and aeration. They do best in organically rich, well-draining soils, whether in the ground or a pot.

You can also make your own mix to have on hand with a few staple materials:

While some species have a slow growth rate, they’re usually robust and fill a pot as young plants develop sturdy roots. In containers, philodendrons may need repotting annually until they become larger specimens and growth slows.

Bump them up to a larger container two sizes bigger to accommodate growth. Avoid going too large, as extra soil retains moisture and causes prolonged saturation.

When growth slows for mature selections, repot every few years to refresh the soil for nutrition and aeration.

Depending on your type of philodendron, it may need a central support as an anchor for climbing. Vining types will spread over a pot edge or climb nearby stakes. Tree species stand alone without additional support unless you want to tidy up or contain branching.

In a container, large vining specimens like fiddleleaf benefit from training around a central stake like a moss pole. With tying off, they’ll grow upright around the support. Train the vining stems as they develop for a vertical form. Install the support at planting to avoid disrupting the roots later on. Without the optional central support, the vining stems sprawl, spread, and trail over the container edge.

When you’re ready to repot, slip the tropical out of its current container, taking care with the foliage. Inspect and gently loosen the roots to lessen encircling and crowding for the new situation. Clip off any unhealthy (dark brown, dry, or mushy) roots.

Partially fill the new pot with fresh mix and place the root ball inside, situating the crown an inch or two below the lip. Backfill with more media, and install supports if using them. Water well to saturate the new mix and return the plant to its happy growing location.

Prune damaged or yellowing leaves to freshen the crown. Trim stems to manage size and promote a bushy form. Always cut stems just above a leaf node to regenerate fresh growth. Cutting back allows potted specimens to maintain a desired height, especially as the tall specimens slowly reach for the sky. Use clippings to propagate new plants by rooting in soil or water.